As Cinthia lays on Train 1, the Vladivostok to Moscow special, Craig again is tasked with updating trip diary. It hardly seems fair, surely Karl Marx would have something to say about this uneven allocation of responsibilities. She laughs occassionally, as ridiculous scenes present themselves on her iPhone, which is playing "The Hangover". I've watched it twice already on this tour of duty, however for Cinthia its a change from her normal routine of listening to Harry Potter audio books.
We have left Yekateringburg, and as yet this side of the Ural mountains doesn't look so different to Siberia, other than the replacement of Pine trees with Fir trees.This trip is only a 25 hour stint, which given our previous 52 hour ordeal we should do we our eyes closed. Presently we are the only 2 people in the 4 berth cabin, so hoping that lasts all the way to Moscow. Given this is our 4th Trans Siberian stint, we have pretty much mastered the set up... suitcases under the seats, a train utility sports bag packed with a change of clothes, food and toiletries stashed in the seat compartments.... all too easy. Within 10 minutes we have removed our shoes, cracked a Russian beer each, opened a packet of chips, and set up to play Mexe Mexe. It hurts me to type that Cinthia won 2-1 this time....however I'm still new to the strategy of this game.
Today was basically a free day in Yekateringburg, hence we had to amuse ourselves. Whilst that sounds easy in a city with 1.5m inhabitents, it proved a little challenging given:
a) We had pretty much covered off everything of significance yesterday
b) Hardly anyone speaks English, nor are any signs in English
c) Tourism doesn't really exist in this city.... it is possible there were less than 5 tourists in the whole city, and we were 2 of them. We certainly didn't see any other non Russian tourists in our stay... in the hotel, in restaurants, on the streets, nowhere.
Tourism is not a major factor for this city, which, whilst is is on the Trans Siberian path, it is a long way from Moscow, and competes with 2-3 other locations in the region for a stopover en route. Confirmation that this was not a tourist city was provided by the fact that the Post Office did not sell one item in English, including postcards. So anyone still waiting for a postcard will just have to wait.
A major reason for the lack of tourism is that for most of the 20th century this city was closed to foreigners, who were not so much as allowed to set foot on the station platform. The reason for this is that Yekateringburg (within the heart of the Ural mountain region) produces most of Russia's minerals, and from this the majority of military equipment was produced. The city produced, for instance, the majority of the T34 tanks that held the Germans back in WWII.
It is a shame more tourists have not seen this city, as it is charming, however also possessive of a rather tragic history.
We did manage to find a Photography museum, which was displayed an exhibition by Gianni Berengo Gardin, an Italian photographer from the early 20th century. Both Cinthia and I really enjoyed the display.
Western trends are slowly infultrating into central Russia, as we did manage to find a coffee and cake shop, which could only be described as a Russian version of "Starbucks". After the staff located the only English speaking girl, we invested in New York cheesecake, and a double cappuccino....certainly wouldn't have happened in Lenin's Day! For just a short moment in time we felt like we were back in Acland St.... people watching, coffee and cake. Noice!
Afterwards it took a while to find a supermarket.....meanwhile passing about 15 different banks. Not quite sure the economic neccesity of this bank to supermarket ratio, but for now we were sufficiently loaded with Russian rouble and US dollars, so needed supplies rather than cash.
On the station platform we were in equal parts sad and happy... sad to be leaving Yekateringburg- which felt like our tourist 'secret' and also the character that was Vadim, but in equal parts excited about commencing a train trip that would deliver us to mighty Moscow, the Russian capital.
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