We decided to spend 2 nights in Veliko Tarnovo in order to have a slow paced day, in a slow paced town. Whilst there were opportunities for day trips, or for a hike or bike ride around the surrounding towns, we had not seen much of this town, nor the fortress, so focussed our attention on local sightseeing.
Whilst Veliko Tarnovo cannot claim to be as old as Plovdiv, it was the capital 700 years ago, and hence the most important city in the region. It's fortress, which is under reconstruction, was built around this time.......
Cinthia and I disagree, I think a complete reconstruction of run down ruins is a good idea if the money can be sourced, whilst she thinks ruins in their current state are better. I certainly look forward to seeing Ephesus (Turkey) once its ruins are fully reconstructed. In Veliko Tarnovo the ruins were being recontructed, however it will be a slow process. It is sure to be justified to increase tourists number in the long term.
Like many fortresses in the region, it is strategically placed, with this fortress having the advantage of snaking rivers on each side, allowing a thin neck entrance into a triangle shaped parcel of land. The entrance neck, and the main footpriant are also elevated, and then accentuated by a wall design which sits atop the elvanted rock face above the rivers. Like Dubrovnik, its location no doubt made it hard to attack.
Unlike Dubrovnik, it is not possible to walk along the walls, however it is still possible to see the surrounding mountains, and sometimes the valleys and river gorges.
Walking on the cobblestones was difficult in flip flops, however we were a little amazed to see people encourtering the cobblestones and steps with the following challenges:
a) Two men carrying a pram up and down steps
b) An elderly lady in a wheelchair with poor suspension being pushed up the rocky cobblestone entrance
c) A lady wearing high heels, white pants and a silk top..... suitable for a nightclub, however not 15th century elevated ruins.
Given my preference to let other people worry about their own concerns, I decided not to tell the high heeled lady that she was a suitable candidate for the 'Darwinian' awards for stupidity.
The afternoon was spent in 3 parts:
1) sitting down to lunch, at the same Bulgarian restaurant..... whilst occassionally checking wireless internet to update the AFL score between Hawthorn and Sydney;
2) visiting the rather small old town street, which was a lovely street full of small handicraft shops, many selling locally made products;
3) returning to the hostel, and begining research on where to stay, and where to hire a car in Romania.
The hostel, which to this stage had been great, lets itself down by offering a basic vegetable soup, in water and vegetable stock, with some bread. It wasn't quite French cuisine, nor as filling as a risotto or pizza, however would help to keep us lean and mean.
At night, we are advised by the Hostel staff that a sound and lightshow is about to start. We walk to the entrance, and watch as the entire fortress is lit up by multi-coloured lights, and the display is coordinated to music. The church sitting atop the mountain, the main entrance gates, the outer wall and many trees inside are lit up in an impressive changing colourdisplay, that lasts for half an hour.
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