The return camel trip had to be completed early so that the tour group could return back to Marrakesh, which was a full days drive away. The group ate what would not be considered a gourmet breakfast, then assembled in darkness....with aches and pains from the previous ride. Whilst we had different camels from the previous day, Cinthia was again at the front of our camel chain. Perhaps with her headscarf and Brazilian complexion she looked more Arabic than I. She insisted that her camel did not stink, however perhaps she needed to see the view from camel bum cam, and her opinion may have been different. It was rather humourous to watch her camel poo rather frequently, and then the round camel poo roll down the sand dune. I must however say that camels are fantastic creatures, so placid and also durable. Perfectly suited to the desert, they can refrain from drinking for around 2 weeks when required. Whilst they are not built for riding speed or comfort, their strong legs can easily carry several hundred kilograms, and hence carrying us humans is not a difficult challenge for them, despite going up and down the sand dunes.
For anyone that hasn't ridden a camel (or single humped dromedario as they should be correctly known) in the dessert it is an experience. Perhaps the real trick is not to hold on too tightly onto the metal T-bar, as if you do your hands are likely to blister with all the camel toing and froing. Going down the dunes it is necessary to hold on, as the long camel strides angle you forward and you feel likely to fall. The other major challenge is not mounting the seated beast, however to hold on when it rises from its knees, or sits down....one knee at a time.
To think the Arabs have lived like this for several millenia, in order to cross deserts and live in such harsh environs. It isn't a lifestyle for the meek, and certainly a shock to Westerners to see how these dessert dwellers live.
Instead of returning to Marrakesh, where we could have taken an overnight train to Fez, we ditched the group in order to head due north. Not only would this allow us to get to Fez faster, it would provide additional scenic views cutting through the centre of Morocco. The Atlas mountains and gorges provide for beautiful scenery, and it was only our lethargy, lack of sleep, and dirty, sand-entrenched feel that stopped us enjoying the scenery more.
Instead of taking the bus our guide had "arranged" us to take Grand taxis....which were large, 20-30 year old Mercedes. I say arranged.... as everyone gets a cut of the tourist dollar in these deals, including the pre-arranged restaurant lunch location. The drivers drove quicker than we were comfortable with, however I think they do this every day, and at least the old wide and heavy Mercs hold the road well during fast corners.
We are not sure which city- Marrakesh or Fez- tourists get hassled more, however arriving in Fez medina with luggage appears to be an invite to "Come over here and tell me how I can pay you for something". Looking at a map- well obviously you need to be escorted to your hotel- no chance you could find it yourself. Given the nature of the tiny streets, and relatively ineffective Lonely Planet maps this is possibly true, however we had learned our lesson in Marrakech, and now proceeded to ask streetside stall sellers for directional assistance, as they were tied to their stalls and hence were happy to help without providing an uneccessary escort. More than once, we had to tell annoying young teenage boys we didn't want help. The fact that my Arabic extends to "Ma Biddi, shokrum"- "I don't want it, thank you", and "Imshi"- "Get lost" shows the most necessary tourist phrases in Arabic.
I guess when you stay a night in the Sahara desert you need a nice hotel to return to, in order to gaurantee a great shower and comfortable bed. Certainly the shower was hot enough and had enough pressure to wash the sand particules out of the skin. It was kind of like washing your car with a Gerni jet hose, prior to the water restrictions.
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| Riad's bathroom |
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| Riad's bedroom |
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| Riad's Patio |
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